What to Plan/Plant for Your Fall Garden

Fall into Winter Gardens

Remove any summer crops that are starting to fade and prepare soil with mulch, mycorrhiza, compost. Re-plant with fall/winter crops or cover crops.

Plant last round of heat loving crops

(early) tomatoes with harvest dates within 50-60 day range

Summer/winter squash (same requirements)

Peppers

Mid-season planting in August

Basil

Beans

Beets

Broccoli

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Carrots

Cauliflower

Chives

Cilantro

Cucumber

Dill

Lettuce

Kale

Mustard Greens

Onion, Shallots, Green onions

Radish

Peas, plant 2 rounds, August and again in Sept for fall/spring harvest

Spinach

Turnips, baby white turnips & regular

Late summer (end of Sept) plant cover crops for any areas where you won’t be planting any winter crops.

Some cool season vegetables should probably be protected from the hot months of Sept into Oct. But by planting these vegetables/fruits now they will benefit from the warmth of the soil and the longer days. If you wait too long, late Oct, the soil is already cooling down and the sun is leaning towards winter, the days growing shorter.

Need more help? Send me an email with questions. I have video’s available for guidance, contact me, [email protected]

Fall Gardening & Cooking

9 / 18 / 20

Even though it still feels like summer (technically it is) fall will be upon us soon. Fall is the best gardening season in Southern California; the ground is still warm enough to germinate seeds quickly yet cool enough at night as not to kill the delicate plants. If you want to start a small kitchen garden now is the time. Here are some easy plants to grow with a little information on how to get them started. If you’d like more information just send me an email, [email protected]

Vegetables for Fall into Winter & Spring

Carrots and Radish

Grow carrots and radish in cool weather, that means fall through spring in Southern California. Succession plant carrots and radish every couple of weeks for continual harvest. They both like full sun to light shade and very, very loose soil. Rocks and clumps will cause the carrot to deform.

Carrots and radish grow well in containers as well. The seeds are very small, plant them about one-quarter inch deep. Carrots do best if direct seeded in the garden, but I’ve grown them in peat pots that you can just plop right into the garden after they sprout. This gives me more control to germinate the seeds which like to be moist, (not wet) and it’ll take up to 15 days for them to sprout.

After you’ve planted the carrots, plant the radish see directly around the carrot. The radish will help keep the soil loose around the top part of the carrot. Radishes grow quickly and will sprout in about 3 or 4 days and can be pulled in about 4 weeks.

Thinning: If too many plants come up in the planting bed don’t pull out the extra, cut it off so as not to disturb the plant next to it. If starting in pots to transfer to the garden be sure to break off the bottom of the pot so the carrot can grow straight otherwise when the root hits the bottom on the peat pot it may become deformed.

Beets

Beets are one of the easiest vegetables to grow. They’re almost never troubled by pests or disease. They don’t need staking, pruning or fussing. Just sow the seeds and you’ll have beets in about 6-8 weeks.

Plant seeds directly into the garden with loose friable soil. Each beet seed is actually a cluster of several seeds so you may need to thin the plants so as not to crowd each other out in the bed. To thin them just cut the top off of the weakest seedling and move on.Keep the soil moist until the beets germinate and plant in full sun. Beets will actually grow veery well over winter, they don’t mind the cold.

Harvest beets when they are small for the sweetest flavor, baby beets should be about 2” in diameter. You can let them continue to grow if you prefer bigger ones. There are many different kinds and colors of beets so try something unusual this year. Don’t forget the tops are edible as well! Salads and stir fried are just a couple of ways to prepare them. Treat them like you would cook or prepare spinach.

Peas

Snap peas are eaten whole, and both the crunchy pod and the peas inside taste sweet. Snap peas yield more food per square foot than the other types.

Snow peas produce tender, flat pods that are eaten whole. Snow peas also produce the most tender vine tips for adding to salads or stir-fries.

Shell peas are often called English peas, because many varieties were developed in Great Britain in the 18th century. Sweet green peas are shelled from tough, inedible pods.

Pre-soak seeds overnight in warm water to soften the seed coat. Peas like moist but not wet soil. I like to start them in Sept. and then plant out in the beds when it’s a little cooler, about the end of Oct. I succession plant them by starting new seeds mid Nov. and then again early spring, this means I’ll have peas all the way up to early summer next year.

Provide a trellis for your peas, check your seed package to determine the height that they will grow. Some are actually ‘bush’ type peas. Peas can be grown in containers, but your yield may be little smaller.

Spinach

Spinach is easy to grow during the cooler months of the year; it doesn’t like hot weather so you can enjoy it from fall to early summer in most parts of Southern California.

Spinach prefers a well-drained loose soil and plenty of nitrogen.

Start spinach indoors or direct seed in the garden as soon as the weather cools down. Start seeds early Oct and in about 3 weeks the transplants will be ready for the garden. If you direct seed wait till mid Oct. to plant unless you’re on the coast, then plant around the first of Oct.

Spinach will grow quickly and can be harvested at almost any stage. Succession plant it every 3 weeks for a continual harvest through early summer. You can harvest it when they leaves are the size you like. You can harvest it in the ‘cut and come again’ method, meaning pick the older, outer leaves first and let the inside grow a little more. You can try cutting the entire top off and it may re sprout with new baby leaves. Spinach is veery easy to grow and full of vitamins.

Do you need help with your garden? Virtual consultations are available, get in touch!

Ask Debbi

Fall/Winter Vegetable Gardening

9 / 26 / 19

Vegetables to plant in our

So. California gardens now

Beets

Be sure to thin plants to about 3″ apart and harvest when they are small for a sweet flavor. Leaves and stems are edible, steam lightly or add to a salad.
To cook, place in a piece of foil, drizzle with olive oil and salt and pepper. Roast in a 450° oven for about 10-15 min. or until tender. Rub skin off with a towel

Broccoli/Cauliflower

Buy transplants in the fall and bury the stem up above second row of leaves. Try roasting these vegetables in a 450° oven. Place cut up pieces on a parchment lined baking sheet, toss with a little olive oil, salt and pepper and any other seasoning you may like (red pepper flakes, garlic powder, lemon juice. Roast for 10 -15 minutes or until tender.

Cabbage

Cabbage is in the same family as broccoli and cauliflower. Homemade sauerkraut is the best! Cut out the fore of the cabbage and thinly slice the leaves into shreds. Place in a large bowl, add 1 1/2 Tb. kosher or canning salt and knead or massage the salt into the cabbage until it releases it’s liquid. Pack into a quart jar with a wide mouth and pour all liquid over the cabbage. Make a brine of 1 cup water and 1 Tb. kosher salt, stir to dissolve salt and then pour it all into a quart freezer bag, place this on top on the cabbage and place a piece of cheesecloth over the mouth of the jar, tie down with string or a rubber band and place in a cool, dark place on your counter. The second day, remove bag and press down on the cabbage to see if it will release more moisture. It should ideally cover the cabbage, if it doesn’t add more brine by either adding the ingredients in the freezer bag or make a new brine by stirring together 1 cup water and 1 tea. kosher salt. cover the cabbage and let stand for 3 -10 days. Begin tasting sauerkraut on the 3rd day, when it reaches the flavor you want, place a cap on the jar and store in your refrigerator.

Carrots

Make sure you have nice loose soil so the carrots can grow long and deep. Thin them when they sprout to give them room to grow, add the thinnings to your salad, soup or stew. Slow roast carrots as you would the broccoli or cauliflower. Drizzle with honey after roasting.

Leafy Greens

Lettuces, spinach, chard, mustard and kale all grow very well over the winter but plant at 2 -3 week intervals for a staggered supply of greens instead of harvesting all at once. Many greens can be lightly sautéed or eaten raw.

Onions & Garlic

Plant onions from ‘starts’ rather than from seeds. Pick short day varieties for best harvest. Scallions that are succession planted can be harvested over the winter/spring season.
Plant garlic from bulbs, plant pointed end up and cut off any green that is sprouting from the top.

Peas

Fall & Spring harvested peas are sweet and easy to grow. Plant a variety from English peas or shelling peas to sugar snap peas. Give them a trellis or cage to grown on and harvest daily for a continued harvest.
Peas and pea pods are lovely lightly steamed or even raw.

You can still plant sweet peas this month for spring flowering

How to Choose Baking Apples

10 / 17 / 18

THE BEST APPLES FOR BAKING

The Farmer’s Almanac

Name	Best Uses	Flavor Characteristics, Appearance
Braeburn	Applesauce	Tart, sweet, aromatic, tall shape, bright color
Cortland	Pies, Applesauce, Fruit Salad	Tart, crisp, larger than ‘McIntosh’
Fuji	Baking	Sweet and juicy, firm, red skin
Gala	Dried, Cider	Mild, sweet, juicy, crisp, yellow-orange skin with red striping (resembles a peach)
Granny Smith	Baking	Moderately sweet, crisp flesh, green skin
Jonagold	Pie, Applesauce	Tangy-sweet, Yellow top, red bottom
Jonathan	Applesauce	Tart flesh, crisp, juicy, bright red on yellow skin
McIntosh	Applesauce	Juicy, sweet, pinkish-white flesh, red skin
Newtown Pippin	Pie, Applesauce, Cider	Sweet-tart flesh, crisp, greenish-yellow skin
Rhode Island Greening	Pie	Very tart, distinctively flavored, grass-green skin, tending toward yellow/orange
Rome Beauty	Baking, Cider	Mildly tart, crisp, greenish-white flesh, thick skin
Winesap	Applesauce, Pie, Cider	Very juicy, sweet-sour flavor, winey, aromatic, sturdy, red skin

How to Make Pumpkin or Squash Puree

10 / 2 / 18

You don’t want to use just any kind of pumpkin for puree, most pumpkins have too much water in them and not enough flavor. Use the small pumpkins known as sugar or pie pumpkins. Or better yet use butternut squash, cooked in the same manner as a pumpkin, butternut squash will give a richer, deeper flavor. The cooked pulp can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a week or can be frozen. Use the squash for pumpkin pie, cakes or for a soup, it can be used in any recipe calling for pumpkin puree.

Preheat the oven to 400°. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper or tin foil.

Wash and dry the squash, slice the top off and cut the pumpkin in half, from the top to the bottom.

Do not remove the seeds and pulp, they will be easy to scoop out after the squash has cooked.

Brush the flesh of each half of the pumpkin with olive oil (or any kind of cooking oil) and place face down on the baking sheet.

Roast for about 40 – 50 minutes, until fork-tender or until a paring knife slips right through the flesh. Let cool for about 10 minutes then scoop out the seeds and the pulp, discard, and then scoop out the cooked flesh.

Blend or puree in a food processor until smooth. Store in the refrigerator for up to a week or freeze up to 3 months.

Photo: Davison Orchards Ltd.

Growing Amaryllis

11 / 29 / 17

3 Ways to Plant Amaryllis

A lovely amaryllis in bloom is a sure sign that the holiday season is in full swing. By planting in November, you can ensure gorgeous flowers come Christmas. TV gardener Andrea Mason shares easy techniques for growing amaryllis in three different mediums:

WATER PLANTING

Fill a clear vessel with a three-inch layer of stones or pebbles. Add the amaryllis bulb, then add more stones around it for stability. Add water just below the bulb, but not touching it, and monitor the water level to make sure it remains consistent.

SOIL PLANTING

Partially fill a pot with well-draining potting soil; add bulbs. Fill in with soil 2/3 of the way up the bulb, keeping the “neck and shoulders” above the soil level.

Water and let pot drain; cover the soil surface with moss or pebbles for decoration. Potted amaryllis can thrive for more than 15 years if properly maintained.

COCO PEAT PLANTING

Place coco peat disk in a container and add warm water. Allow disk to absorb water and expand for about 15 minutes; stir. Fill the bottom half of a pot with coco peat mixture and position bulb with roots down. Add remaining mixture so about 1/4 of the bulb is above the surface.

Care Tips

After planting, place bulbs in a warm, bright spot. Bottom heat, such as a germination pad or the top of a refrigerator, will help force the bulbs out of dormancy. Water sparingly until green growth appears, then water regularly. Try to keep the soil moist but not soggy.

Stake the stalks with twigs when they grow tall so they don’t topple over. After flowers fade, cut stems an inch from the base of the bulb. Water as needed and apply household fertilizer monthly until midsummer. Then, cease watering and let bulbs rest for two months, at which point they’re ready to begin the forcing process once again.

Article from Martha Stewart

Photo Smithsonian Inst. Diane Shaw

In the Fall Vegetable Garden

9 / 7 / 17

Although here in Southern California there aren’t many place where we get frost some places away from the beach will get a light frost and towards the mountains an early frost and snow. But our last frost date near the coastline is anywhere from early Nov to early Dec. and our first frost date is somewhere around Feb. It’s good to know this information so you can plan on what and when to plant.

As the ground gets cold seeds will have a hard time sprouting or will not sprout at all. Planting a fall garden with vegetables that can ‘over-winter’ will see you through the cool, rainy (hoping) months. Heartier vegetables like broccoli, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts actually get a little sweeter with a touch of frost.

If you get tomatoes, beans and cucumbers in the ground now (Aug-Sept) make sure you plant early verities that have time to fruit before the ground begins to cool. Most nurseries will still be carrying good supplies of summer vegetables for the next month.

Broccoli, Cabbage, Kale & Brussels Sprouts
Parsley & Cilantro (but if we get a hot spell between Sept & Oct they may bolt)
Beets, Carrots, Turnips (try the little white turnip, sweet tasting even raw)
Leeks, Scallions, Onions, Shallots
Peas & Potatoes
Lettuce (provide a little shade until Nov), Spinach & Mustard

Here are two nurseries in our area that I love for great vegetable plants

H & H, Lakewood Blvd, Lakewood

http://hhnursery.com/

Rogers Gardens, Newport Beach

http://rogersgardens.com/

Almost all the seed catalogs have great sale prices too, a good time to pick up some fall and spring seeds.

Grow Organic/Peaceful Valley Farms

http://www.groworganic.com/

Baker Creek Seeds

http://www.rareseeds.com/

High Mowing Seeds

http://www.highmowingseeds.com/

Renee’s Garden

http://www.reneesgarden.com/

Seeds From Italy

http://www.growitalian.com/

Green Beans, Bacon and Caramelized Shallots

8 / 22 / 178 / 23 / 17

Grow a Second Crop of Green Beans

In Southern California we are lucky enough to grow a fall crop of beans. With warm days still ahead the beans will sprout and grow quickly. Bush beans are your best bet, with shorter days to harvest than pole beans you should be able to harvest in just 45-50 days. Check your seed packet for harvesting information.

There are three types of bush beans, snap beans (eat the pod & all), shelling beans (eat the beans inside the pod like peas) or dried beans. Dried beans you’ll want to leave on the plant until everything has dried up, pick the dried pods and put into a grocery bag. You can knock the bag around to remove the shell or pull the dried pod away from the beans. I like to freeze the beans for 24 hours to kill any pests that may have hitched a ride. Then store in a glass jar or other container in your pantry, away from heat and light. When you’re ready to use them, treat them like any other dried bean (that’s another story….)

Most bush beans don’t need to be trellised, and they produce most of their crop all at once. For a great harvest and good use of space, plant Square Foot Gardening style, 9 plants to a square foot.

To get the best crop inoculate your bean seeds before planting. Beans, peas and all legumes ‘fix’ nitrogen into the soil. The inoculant, Rhizobium leguminosarum, is a nitrogen fixing bacteria. These bacteria “infect” the legumes growing in the soil and cause the legumes to form the nitrogen fixing nodules that make peas and beans bombshells.
You should be able to find the inoculant at any garden center or nursery. It can also be ordered from www.groworganic.com (Peaceful Valley Farm Supply).

While you are digging the holes for the seed, soak the seeds in water for about ½ hour. Dig your hole and sprinkle a generous helping of inoculant into the hole. Water and then plant your seeds. They’ll take up to 10 days to sprout, don’t overwater while you are waiting for them to poke up from the ground, overwatering can cause the seed to rot before it sprouts. Watch out for birds as well, they love seeds! I like to cover my bed with a floating row cover until the seeds are up and have several sets of leaves.

Give the plants 2 – 3” of water a week and you can side dress with a little compost. I mulch my beds with straw to help keep water evaporation down and to keep weeds from sprouting.

Plant companion plants near beans for the best growing bed, they like to grow near beets, cucumber, nasturtiums, peas and radish.

Watch for pests such as a cucumber beetle, bean beetle or weevil. I planted my beans near basil which is usually a good pest deterrent but this year those white butterflies (which are really cabbage moths) laid eggs on the basil and the little worms devoured my newly sprouted beans. So I planted a new round because I love green beans, especially in the fall. I freeze some for soups when winter comes and hopefully have enough until next spring when I can get some more in the ground.

Here’s an easy side dish recipe for you to try.

Green Beans with Smoked Bacon & Caramelized Shallots

Serves 6
* To blanch green beans: Fill a large bowl with ice and cold water leaving room for green beans. Bring a large saucepan full of water to a boil and add green beans and a good helping of salt, cook for 1-2 minutes, drain the beans and plunge them into the bowl of ice water. Let them cool, drain and dry well.

2 pounds haricots verts (thin green beans), trimmed, blanched and dried well*
½ pound applewood smoked bacon
3 large shallots, quartered
2 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine or balsamic vinegar
Sea salt & freshly ground black pepper

Cook bacon until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon, and drain on paper towels, reserving 2 Tbsp. drippings in skillet.

Add olive oil to the pan with the bacon drippings then add the quartered shallots and sauté until browned. Add the vinegar, stir well, then add the green beans and toss until coated with oil, cook for another minute then season with salt and pepper and toss with bacon, serve hot.

It’s Easy to Grow Potatoes!

2 / 8 / 17

Choose organic seed potatoes, don’t plant potatoes that you’ve purchased from the market even if they have sprouts. They won’t perform well in the garden and you’ll be disappointed. Buy certified organic see potatoes from a reputable nursery. In LA check out Two Dog Nursery, http://www.twodognursery.com/ or by mail, Peaceful Valley Farm, https://www.groworganic.com/

Pre-spouted potatoes will grow faster and you’ll be able to pick potatoes about a month earlier. Growing potatoes is SO easy! You can grow in Smart Pots, the easiest in my opinion, or in the ground.

To pre-sprout the potatoes, put them in a paper bag or lay them out singly in a warm room. If they are larger than a couple of inches I cut them into pieces with each piece having 2 or more ‘eyes’ and let them dry out of the sun for a couple of days. Potatoes like sandy, loose soil so if that’s not the kind of soil you find in your garden a Smart Pot is the way to go, it also makes harvesting easier. If you are planting right in the ground, make a furrow about 3” deep and plant the seed potato eyes up, cover with soil and plant the next potato seed about 2’ away. As the potatoes sprout and grow keep covering the plant with loose soil or straw leaving about 3” exposed. The new potatoes grow on top of the seed potato, keep the soil moist but not wet and keep ‘hilling’ the plant until it’s about 10 – 12” tall. Fertilize with a general organic gardening fertilizer such as EB Stone Tomato & Vegetable Food, 4-5-3.

Harvest potatoes in about 60 days after the blooms start to die back. Stop watering and leave the potatoes in the ground, covered with soil or straw to prevent greening (don’t eat a green potato), to set the skin. Fresh potatoes have a very thin, delicate skin so if you’re planning on storing any of them you’ll want it to ‘toughen’ up a little. If you’re growing in a Smart Pot after you’ve toughened up the skin, just dump the pot out in the garden and collect all your potato gems! Start each season with fresh new seed potatoes. In California you can grow potatoes in spring and in fall, yippee for California!

Get Smart Pots here

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How To Grow Amaryllis & Paperwhite Bulbs

10 / 20 / 16

I love growing Narcissus (Paperwhites) in the spring and in the fall/early winter. If you stagger planting these bulbs you can have continuous blooms from now all through the holidays. Narcissus and Amaryllis both grow well in soil or in a vase or shallow bowl with no soil at all. I love taking amaryllis bulbs to anyone that I visit during the holidays; you can even find bulb kits at the nursery or almost any store this time of year.

Unlike most bulbs these two don’t need to be chilled before planting, they love our warm climate (even if sometimes we don’t!). If you want continuous blooms buy a dozen or so bulbs and store some in a cool dark place and ‘plant’ every few weeks through late winter. Amaryllis will bloom 6 – 8 weeks after planting and Paperwhites 3-5 weeks after planting.

To plant in soil make sure the container is about 5”- 6” deep, plant the Paperwhite bulbs, with the root end down so that the tops peek above the soil surface. You can plant 5 bulbs in this pot and space them a little apart from each other. Water until the soil is damp but not soggy or the bulbs will rot, water occasionally until they bloom then water regularly but do not overwater. Some Paperwhites are very tall and need support to keep from falling over. Plant one Amaryllis bulb in the same size pot with the tip about one-third above the soil. Amaryllis can be encouraged to bloom again next year if planted in soil, cut off the old bloom to about 1” above the bulb, water and feed regularly and let the leaves grow throughout the year. In late summer stop watering and let the leaves dies back naturally as they start to store energy for the next season. You can dig up the bulb or leave in the pot and place into a cool, dark place for about 8 weeks. You can repot in fresh soil or add a little finished compost to it, bring it back into a light area, water infrequently until you see growth and then repeat the process. Paperwhites won’t usually bloom again so buy new bulbs each year.

To plant in gravel or stones place a layer of stones or gravel over the bottom of a vase to a depth of 2-4” for the Amaryllis or paperwhites and place the bulb or bulbs on top of the stones, fill the vase with more stones up to the top third of the bulb and add water up to 1” below the base of the bulb, do not let the bulb sit in water or it will rot. Add water as needed but keep the level below the base of the bulb. Be sure to use a vase or jar that is tall enough so that it won’t tip over as the flower shoots grow.

Buy some ‘kits’ as hostess gifts for the holidays and store in a cool, dark place until you need them. (Don’t forget where you stash them though!)

Fall Vegetable Gardens

8 / 16 / 16

Fall Vegetable Gardens

Although here in Southern California there aren’t many place where we get frost, some places away from the beach will get a light frost and towards the mountains an early frost and snow. But our last frost date near the coastline is anywhere from early Nov to early Dec. and our first frost date is somewhere around Feb. It’s good to know this information so you can plan on what and when to plant.

If you get tomatoes, beans and cucumbers in the ground now (Aug-Sept) make sure you plant early varieties that have time to fruit before the ground begins to cool. Most nurseries will still be carrying good supplies of summer vegetables for the next month.

These are some fruit and vegetables that will grow for you now.

Here are two nurseries in our area that I love for great vegetable plants.

H & H, Lakewood Blvd, Lakewood

http://hhnursery.com/

Rogers Gardens, Newport Beach

http://rogersgardens.com/

Almost all the seed catalogs have great sale prices too, a good time to pick up some fall and spring seeds.

Grow Organic/Peaceful Valley Farms

http://www.groworganic.com/

Baker Creek Seeds

http://www.rareseeds.com/

High Mowing Seeds